Big breath in! I was surprised when I heard the rumours and shocked when I read the official report.
Has the gold standard of skincare been banned?
What skincare products should I get instead?
Keep reading if you are up for a bit of learning and a good rant.
Blog content:
- What is a retinoid?
- Why is it so loved?
- Has it really been banned?
- Alternatives
- Top tips
1. What is a retinoid?
Retinoid is the umbrella term for vitamin A derivatives. Let’s use a good old infographic to understand how this works:
So, even though we often think that retinoids and retinol are the same thing, they are not. Be mindful of this when searching for your perfect retinoid goodie.
2. Why is it so loved?
Retinol is often called the gold standard for a reason. It is actually one of the most researched cosmetic ingredients, with plenty of scientific evidence to back up its benefits. It is in the top 5 most used cosmetics at the time this post is being written.
Right, in a nutshell, what are its benefits then?
Anti-ageing – stimulates collagen production, consequently, preventing wrinkles and smoothing fine lines.
Prevents and treats acne – prevents clogged pores, prevents breakouts and reduces the inflammation of acne scars.
Brightening – fades dark spots and reduced the appearance of dull skin. And no, let’s not feed that debate that retinol is an exfoliant that can be used with other exfoliants. That’s nonsense. Whilst retinoids fasten skin cell turnover, exfoliant actually strips dead skin cells away. There you go. Not the same thing and ok to use together (see my top tips to get the gist of it).
3. Has it really been banned?
Yes and No.
Let’s start with the great news – retinoids have not been banned from the EU. You can still get your hands on this goodie that is a fave of many.
Its worth bearing in mind that this does NOT affect the UK as it no longer follows European legislation.
The not-so-good news is that some products have been discontinued for good. After thoroughly reading the very long official report of the scientific opinion on vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate) from the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety published later last year, here are the products that were stopped:
- Leave-on and rinse-off retinol face products with concentrations above 0.3%
- Body lotions with concentrations above 0.05%
But why all these sudden changes?
According to the report above mentioned
It was found a concern with the levels of skin irritation and sensitisation with the usage of retinol products with higher concentrations. Additionally, a different study noted an increased number of skin cancers and decreased time of tumour appearance when using retinol 0.5% or 1%.
So, those are the most recent facts.
Now, onto my rant.
I get it! I am an experienced nurse who sees basal cell carcinomas (aka skin cancer) on a daily basis. Whilst some think is just a “small skin lesion”, unfortunately, some have the most drastic outcome.
Skin cancers have significant health-related costs, increasing the financial burden of the already overstretched health services.
Now, I totally agree with reducing skin cancers number, consequently reducing health-related costs, but shouldn’t we invest more in health promotion instead?
Health promotion is definitely one of my passions. Knowledge is power and gives people the tools they need to make an informed decision. However, is with great regret that I see the health budget being poorly managed and not enough of it being allocated to health promotion.
Prevention is always better than treatment, wouldn’t you agree?!
How can this be fair though? People smoke. A lot. Why is tobacco not banned then? Its burden on health services is colossal. Somehow that’s ok but having the choice of using a retinol serum with a concentration above 0.3% is not *big sigh*.
My honest opinion is to really invest in educating about the use of SPF, how to safely use a retinoid-based product, and, in view of a living-cost crisis, to significantly decrease the cost of sunscreen so is widely available to everybody.
4. Alternatives
A great alternative is my all time fave skincare goodie – retinal. Is more effective and less likely to irritate your skin. What’s not to love?!
Here are some of your skin life savers:
Geek & Gorgeous A-Game 5 retinal serum – available in two different strengths, is optimal for a beginner formulation. It has great soothing ingredients, such as allantoin and bisabolol, and vit E, a powerful antioxidant. Also, the most budget-friendly of the lot.
Medik 8 Crystal Retinal – with the possibility of laddering up through 5 different strengths, this is a staple for many and one that has been in the market for a while. Formulated with good humectants (hyaluronic acid and glycerin) and Vit E (antioxidant). A bit pricey this one!
Naturium Retinaldehyde cream serum – we all been waiting for this to happen and here it is! The most recent retinal in the market. Lovely formulation with glycerin and a bio-fermented peptide which enhances its brightening and smoothing properties.
5. Top tips
- USE SPF
Slather that sunscreen EVERY DAY! Do NOT use retinoids if you are not up to using sunscreen diligently, as its usage increases your skin sensitivity to sun exposure. Rainy day? SPF. Sunny day? SPF. Indoors? SPF. Car journey? SPF. Cloudy day? SPF. I think we got the message.
- Patch test
I feel like in every blog post I blab about patch testing but it only reiterates how important is to test your products before you slather it in your face. You don’t want to end up looking like a beetroot, do you?!
- Star low and go slow
If you are a newbie less is more. Start with a lower % so you can see how your skin reacts to it. Then, take it easy – start using it once a week and build up once your skin is acclimatised. Once you are a pro, you can do it 2 to 3 times a week. But, of course, some do it twice daily… but hey-oh, a happy, healthy skin barrier is everything for me, so I stick to it twice weekly.
- Avoid a skin goodies cocktail
Leave the passion fruit martinis for Saturday nights. In my FREE eBook about Skincare 101 (subscribe to get it right away!), I reiterate the importance of not mixing all the actives under the sun with the goal to target all concerns at once. Pick one to two concerns and grab the actives that you really need. This doesn’t mean you can’t use exfoliants or vit C with your retinol, I would just recommend using them on alternate days or alternate times of the day, depending on how your skin reacts.
- Packaging
Opt for airless pumps, minimizing the risk of oxidisation.
- Storage
Keep it in a dry, cool, dark place.
- How to apply it?
The most traditional way is to apply it after cleansing your face and after any toner or any other serums you may use and before your moisturiser. However, there is an alternative trick if your skin is sensitive. Known as the sandwich method (this always makes me laugh!), apply a thin layer of your moisturiser, followed by your retinoid serum and reapply moisturiser once more.
- Ingredient list
If your retinoid product does not have retinol in the first few ingredients in the ingredient list then say buh-bye! The same goes if you see an amazing (not!) serum proclaiming to have 3% retinal.
- Soothing ingredients
Choose a product that contains good soothing ingredients in order to reduce the likelihood of irritation (redness, purging, dry skin, flaky skin). I am talking about bisabolol, glycerin, and allantoin, for example.
- Be consistent (and patient!)
Pick what concerns you want to target, build a skincare routine that works for you and finally stick to it! Skincare takes time to work. It may take up to 6 months until your start to notice any difference when using retinoids. You can do this!
- Nothing seems to work!!!!
Ahhhhh…despair! You have tried everything and nothing seems to work for your sensitive skin? That’s fine too. Accept that retinoids might not be for you. No problem though. You can try other actives that may help with your skin concern. Anti ageing? Try using peptides and a vit C. Acne? Carry on with your BHA exfoliant and niacinamide. Hyperpigmentation? Try Azelaic acid and AHA exfoliants.
12. Pregnancy
Retinoids aren’t yet proven to be safe if you are planning to get pregnant, pregnant or breastfeeding. Do a little break for now and once you get back to it will feel like being reunited with your old best friend (well…that’s what it felt like for me!). Don't miss out all about your pregnancy to-do list here.
13. Journaling
Finally, keep track of your progress. I keep a note in my skincare journal about all the products I am using and what changes I have noticed. A really good trick that has made a big difference for me was taking a picture of my skin of day one of starting my retinoid journey and then comparing it with the pictures later on. It’s motivating to keep you on track and also to keep an eye out for any possible skin reactions. Thank me later beaut.
Let’s sum it up!
The rumour that has spread is not totally true. Retinoids have not been banned from the EU.
There are, however, a few restrictions and changes to note, such as the discontinuation of retinol face products with concentrations above 0.3% and retinol body products with concentrations above 0.05%.
Don't panic though, grab a retinal serum instead! It’s more efficient and less likely to cause irritation. Boom! Problem solved!
Share your thoughts below on how feel about the latest retinol news!